Traditionally, fireplaces were placed in the center of the wall. The furniture was then grouped around it. When television first entered the American home, the screens were small and the television was simply another piece of furniture. Today, television screens are large and arguably the most prominent feature in the room. Usually the television is placed on another wall, so it has enough space. But this means your furniture arrangement must “aim” at both the fireplace and television at the same time. This is pretty hard to do. One poor solution that often is presented is to place the television above the fireplace. This helps with the furniture arrangement, but placing the television at this height only works if you are lying in bed while watching. If you are seated in a sofa or a chair, this is too high and puts an uncomfortable strain on your neck. Are there any other solutions to this dilemma?

Here's One Way to Solve the Television and Fireplace Location Dilemma. The Television Is Behind the Cabinet Doors.

One way to get the fireplace and television on the same wall is to not put either one in the exact center of the room and to think of them as a combined element.

In one house I designed recently, we built one wide ”pillar” of stone from floor to ceiling and put the fireplace opening in the right half and the television in a cabinet recessed into the stone on the left half. Then we centered the entire stone element in the room. Neither the television nor the fireplace was exactly centered in the room, but both ended up in good positions for seeing them while seated in the furniture grouping. Your eye reads the combined assembly and sees it as “centered” in the room and on the wall. You could do the very same thing without the stone and instead creating with a projecting drywalled element. Or, the grouping of the fireplace and television could be built into a paneled, cabinet-like assembly that would achieve the same goal.

Thinking of the television and the fireplace opening as being parts of a larger, unitized element will make the arrangement easier to handle and much more successful. You’ll be able to arrange your furniture around this combined architectural element and have perfect viewing positions for both the television and the fireplace.

UPDATE – I’ve gotten several requests for a photo that describes the fireplace and television cabinet combination I am describing. I’ve inserted it above. Hope it helps explain the concept. 

If you would like to read more articles about house and home design, please visit my other website, www.about-home-design.com.

I know that in our house, with four adult children and their family and friends visiting, we often have a packed house. We wanted a house that was not too big, but would be able to adapt to different needs. We wanted a house that was flexible.

Consider holiday dinners. How will you fit all of those people at one table? Or will some folks have to sit in the kitchen? One way to keep everyone together is to be sure your dining space is expandable in one direction. In our house, we have a dining room that opens to the foyer area. Normally the dining room furniture sits appropriately within the dining room space that is defined by a tray ceiling and to widely spaced columns that denote the end of the dining room and the beginning of the foyer. The opening between the columns is wide enough so that when we extend the table by setting an additional table at the end of the regular dining room table, our temporary banquet table simply stretches into the foyer space. As a result, we can seat twenty people at one sitting.

Other things to consider in making your house flexible are where additional living room type seating might occur, where everyone might sleep, and how multiple people might work in your kitchen at the same time. If you can do these things while maintaining the intimate, comfortable aspect of the house when just you and your fellow full-time residents are there, you’ll have a flexible house that is not overly large.

If you would like to read more articles about house and home design, please visit my other website, www.about-home-design.com.

I have new medium cherry cabinets in a new home that we have just purchased.  I would like them to be much darker.  Is it possible to do this without refinishing the cabinets?  What wood for flooring would you suggest to complement/contrast the darker cherry cabinets?

My answer:

To change the color of cabinets usually means you would need to refinish the cabinets to some degree, depending on their condition. Since yours are new and in good shape, you could clean the surfaces and apply a polyurethane finish with an integral stain over the finish you already have. Minwax Polyshades is one of these products. This would mean that you would not have to strip and sand the existing doors and cabinets. So if that’s what you mean by “refinish,” then the answer is, “No,” you won’t have to refinish new cabinets to change the color. You’ll merely have to add a colored finish on top of the existing finish. Just be sure to follow the directions exactly. Don’t skip any steps. You might try samples of colors on the backs (insides) of the doors before doing any of the fronts. That way you’ll see what you’ll get in an inconspicuous place.

 As far as wood flooring choices go, take a look at the medium to lighter woods, like white oak or even reclaimed heart pine. Don’t go dark with the floor if you are darkening your cabinets. Try for a nice, eye-pleasing contrast between the woods. I’m not sure where you’re located and what is available. But with the smooth cherry cabinets, you could select a flooring that has an “active” and interesting grain pattern, if you like. If oak is too grainy, take a look at rift sawn and quarter sawn oak before rejecting it. Normal, plain-sawn oak can have arch-shaped grain patterns that some folks don’t care for. Rift-sawn and quarter-sawn oak has a beautiful straight grain look and accents of what are called medullary rays, or pith rays. Rift sawn oak is one of my favorites. My mantel and adjoining cabinets in my family room are built of this wood.

 I hope this helps. Good luck with your project.

If you would like to read more articles about house and home design, please visit my other website, www.about-home-design.com.

We are starting to select the different materials around the house.  Your beautiful pictures have been a great inspiration…  I particularly like your wooden floors on pages 114

Page 114 Photo from "Designing Your Perfect House"

and 194. 

Page 194 Photo from "Designing Your Perfect House"

Do you happen to remember/can you recognize the kind of wood they are made of?

Here’s my answer.

The wood floor on page 114 is Santos Mahogany. You can see another view of that flooring on page 150. It looks a bit different from one photo to another depending on the direction of the light. Santos Mahogany is one of the few woods that actually gets lighter when exposed to light. The wood you see in the photos has been in place since 2002. So it has already lightened.

The wood flooring on page 194 can be seen again on page 226. This wood floor is Jatoba. It is also known as Brazilian Cherry. But keep in mind that what is often sold as Brazilian Cherry is actually an assortment of pieces of three different species. Jatoba is one of them and I do not know what the other two species are. But some of the pieces of the other species can tend to look a bit greenish. So if you want the redder color, specify that all of the wood must be Jatoba without any other species included.

I always welcome questions and comments concerning anything related to house design, homebuilding, and remodeling. if they are questions i think other reader might like to hear, I’ll post them in my blog.

If you would like to read more articles about house and home design, please visit my other website, www.about-home-design.com.

Gaps between boards, or cracks, if you will, are not the result of the wood floor failing or falling apart. They are the result of the wood planks shrinking as the relative humidity goes down and the wood floor loses moisture content. The air in the summer has a higher relative humidity than in the summer. This lets the wood flooring absorb moisture and swell. So usually gaps between boards go away in the summer. Then those gaps reappear in the winter as the humidity goes down again.

If your builder had installed the floors with too little moisture content at the time of installation, when the relative humitidy went up, the boards would have nowhere to swell or expand and they would push against each other causing the planks to cup and possibly rise. Flooring must be installed to allow this seasonal swelling and shrinking.

If you have standard, 2 1/4″ wide flooring, you should not have gaps wider than the thickness of a business card. However, sometimes two or three boards will stick together and move as a unit. This would produce one crack the width of the thickness of three business cards instead of three cracks, each the with the thickness of one business card. This would be considered normal. If you have cracks wider than that, chances are the floor was installed with too high a moisture content.

If your flooring consists of wider planks, your gaps will be proportionately wider. The wood will shrink the same percentage, but the actual dimension of the crack will necessarily be wider. Planks twice as wide will produce gaps that are twice as wide.

Engineered flooring shrinks less than solid wood flooring. This is because engineered floor has a solid wood surface, but the underlying wood is actually plywood. Plywood is dimensionally more stable because it is assembled with the wood grain of each layer running ninety degrees to the layer above and below. Wood shrinks across the grain and not much with the grain. So one layer reisist the shrinkage of the neighboring layer. If you want wide plank floors, take a hard look at engineered flooring. It will remain much more dimensionally stable than solid wood planks, yet the surface, the part you see and walk upon, will be identical to the solid plank.

Filling the gaps is merely a temporary cure. When the wood swells again as the season changes, chances are the filler will be squeezed out. My recommendation is to look around at older houses and observe the gaps in those floors. It’s likely you looked right past those blemishes and maybe even viewed them as part of the “patina of age” and thought they enhanced the charm of the house. Your house will develop it’s own patina and grow more charming every season if you let the nature of wood take its course. Your wood floors are a natural product that abides by the laws of nature. Swelling and contracting with moisture content is the natural behavior of wood.

I always welcome comments. Please feel free to post a comment and share your experience with the rest of us.

If you would like to read more articles about house and home design, please visit my other website, www.about-home-design.com.

This soaking tub set in a secluded alcove gives a spa feel to this luxury bathroom

The bath is now the oasis, the place to retreat from the hectic world. soaking tubs are still there, altough more people claim they don’t have time to use them. But those people who do like them to be an experience. Reading, meditating, and just zoning out are the attraction. Plus spa tubs add to the look of the room, giving you the sensation of being somewhere you could relax, even if you don’t have the time right now.

I’m getting more requests for showers with no glass, no door and no curb. People have tired of cleaning the glass walls of a shower. They they love the look, but don’t like having to squeegee down the glass after they take a shower. Many people prefer having no glass except for the glass door. But even better, if you can make the shower area large enough, you can have a direct “walk in” arrangement with no door, at all. The entire shower can be tile or stone. The entrance area becomes a great place for towel bars and drying off. Having no curb is appealing to people, particularly if they anticipate aging in place and they don’t want to be forced to move out of their house if they ever lose mobility.

There is certainly a trend toward more shower heads, body sprays and rain head showers. These don’t help with water or energy conservation. But the trend is toward making your bathroom your own personal spa. If you opt for more water sources, be sure to have the mixing valves properly sized so the spray shoots out and doesn’t just dribble.

Air tubs are replacing water-jet whirlpools. This is because the air tubs let you use oils and bubbles without worrying about gumming up the plumbing. The motor for air tubs can be located in a remote location. This reduces the noise. Water-jet tubs can’t do that.

Heated tile or stone floors are more common. They are easy to install with electric powered mesh mats that are installed just beneath the tiles. They can operate on a timer so the floor is warm when you get up in the morning and then turn off later so you won’t have to remember to do it. Heated towel bars warm the spirit, too.

Lots of storage is critical. People need places for all of their things and they want them conveniently located. How many potions and appliances do you have? Wouldn’t it be nice to have a home for all of them, leaving you an uncluttered countertop?

A separate room for the toilet and/or bidet are standard for luxury baths. Sometimes there are even separate his and hers toilet areas.

Sit-down makeup vanities are much more common. Sometimes these are next to one of the sinks. But more and more these vanities get their own location, possibly even within the large master closet, provided the closet is more of a dressing room and not simply a place to hang clothes. It’s nice to provide a tiny sink at the makeup vanities so there is a water source.

Multiple types and levels of lighting are great. This lets you have one type and level of lighting for shaving and tooth brushing, but another level for relaxing in the soaking tub. And don’t forget about the light needed when it comes time to clean your spa/bathroom.

Regarding soaking tubs, there seems to be a trend toward deeper tubs that are smaller in footprint and not small swimming pools. It’s a philosophy similar to the tubs in a Japanese ofuro, except we don’t bath before entering the tub like they do. Still, the deeper tub allows full immersion in a slightly more upright position.

Privacy gardens are nice. This would be a garden visible only from the bathroom with a surrounding wall high enough to provide privacy without the use of window blinds or shades. This can give the bathroom a wonderful outdoor feel, even in climates that don’t permit outdoor living year-round. Sliding or patio doors can allow access from the bath to the privacy garden. And where the climate is right, the garden can even contain an outdoor shower, all in total seclusion and out of the view of the neighbors.

If you would like to read more articles about house and home design, please visit my other website, www.about-home-design.com.

“Mr. Hirsch, I love your book, it puts into words all the things I couldn’t when viewing houses!” Cathy B.

Thanks, Cathy. You made my day.

House design is very intangible. Many times we can feel that things are not right in one house and comfortably perfect in another, but it is hard to explain why. However, there are principles architects employ to make a design cohesive, flowing, and appropriate. Architects deal with scale and composition. Good house design is about much more than putting one room next to another. It’s about balance, proportions and sequencing of spaces. It’s about optimizing space and making spaces fit their purpose. These are things architects study and understand.

In my book, Designing Your Perfect House, I explore these concepts and try to explain them in plain English. I’m delighted that Cathy felt I managed to do that. You can download a few chapters, for free, on my website. Just click here.

Take a look and let me know what you think.

If you would like to read more articles about house and home design, please visit my other website, www.about-home-design.com.

Greys, and actually all colors, are grouped into two types, cool and warm. Cool greys have underlying blue tints. Warm greys have underlying tan or yellow tints. It’s easy to remember the terms if you think of ice being cold and blue while wood is brown and warm.

One common example of grey tones is seen most automobile interiors. We don’t have many choices of interior colors for cars these days. The choice is usually limited to black, tan, or grey. The tan is essentially a warm grey and the grey that is usually used is a cool, bluish grey. To get an idea of how greys can clash, imagine if you had a cool grey interior in your car and the door to the glove compartment was tan. Anyone with good color vision would readily see that something was wrong.  A warm grey mortar would look just as bad if it was used with a bluish grey stone on your house. Similarly, a cool grey grout would look bad with yellow or brown tile on your bathroom floor.

These same principles apply to all color selections. Match warm colors with warm colors and cool colors with cool colors.

If you would like to read more articles about house and home design, please visit my other website, www.about-home-design.com.

Don’t overplay your hand. You might be holding all the cards right now, since every builder is very hungry for work. But pushing too hard can cause the builder to dig in and not want to negotiate no matter what. Effective negotiations should always leave both parties, the builder and yourself, feeling each came out well and didn’t have to give up too much.

My advice is that when you are negotiating, you need to always give the builder a comfortable reason to adjust his bid without him feeling like he is simply changing his number. No builder wants to be seen as saying, “I was trying to charge you that higher amount, but now that you’re pushing me a little, I’d be happy to only charge you this much.” It makes it look like he was trying to gouge the customer in the first place. So my suggestion is to always change the scope of the project a little bit, or suggest the builder ask his subs or suppliers if there is any way they can reduce the costs of the work. That way the builder can come back to you and say, “Now that we deleted the fancy tiles the cost has come down…” or “I really pushed my subs and got you these savings…”  This lets the builder be the hero in getting you a better price, even if part of the reduction actually came from their own anticipated profit. They never have to say they cut their price, even if they did.

One other good tactic is to simply say, “I have a couple of prices and we are going to make a decision tomorrow. Please give me your last, best price to help with the decision.” This opens another opportunity for the builder to trim his profit without setting a new precedent he may not want to be publicly known. But you’ll still get the benefit of the discount he quietly created for you.

Another good approach is to evaluate the price they gave you, determine what you think the price should be, maybe three to five percent less, and then say to the builder, “I need to get this price to “X” or else I can’t go ahead. If you can do something to tweak you price to “X”, I’ll sign the contract.” Of course, in this scenario, you need to actually be ready to sign the contract. Your target number needs to be realistic, too.

Some cost savings can come from simple changes that make the builder’s work easier to do or coordinate, yet still give you the end result you are wanting. I always ask the builder for his suggestions and ask him to identify any places we might be spending too much without a compensating benefit. I do this even if the price was below our budget. You never want to overspend unwittingly.

Negotiating with both parties interests in mind will get you a great price and leave the builder happy to have gotten the job. When everyone is happy, the work always turns out better.

Have you had success or an interesting experience with builder negotiations? Post a comment and share it with us.

If you would like to read more articles about house and home design, please visit my other website, www.about-home-design.com.

My husband and I just bought a house built in the early 60′s and it has the original white oak floors that have the aged yellow/orange look. I’m getting used to them, I think!  I don’t know what color to paint the walls that will compliment the floors.  I plan to invest in traditional wool area rugs with golds, greens, navy, and rusts colors.  I prefer lighter colors for walls but can’t seem to select one that doesn’t look so yellow.  Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

Here’s my answer:

The yellow/orange color you see in the white oak floors is probably not the wood that has turned this color. It is probably the polyurethane finish. Oil-based polyurethanes yellow considerably over time. If you wish to get rid of the yellow, you could simply have them refinished. When the polyurethane is sanded off, the underlying wood will look like new and be the original white oak color. We did this in a house we bought in Wilmington, Delaware many years ago. The house had been built in 1918 and the floors were very yellow and had black spots, too. Once they were refinished, they looked brand new and wonderful.

A new oil-based poly will yellow a little, but not nearly as yellow as one that is many, many years old. And newer polyurethanes tend to be more color stable than those from some years ago. If you want to totally avoid yellowing in the future, you could use a water-based polyurethane finish. The water based finish will not yellow and is a little more durable than even the tough oil-base polyurethane, but some people feel it leaves the floor looking flat and a bit lifeless.

For the wall colors, you might want to consider picking up the other colors in the rugs, but in pale tones. A very pale green, with even a slight grey cast and not yellowish, can be a very handsome color and is in style these days.

To learn more about polyurethane finishes, you might want to visit www.minwax.com. they are a long-time manufacturer of high quality floor finishes of all types. Their website is full of tips, advice, and product information.

If you would like to read more articles about house and home design, please visit my other website, www.about-home-design.com.