I have designed many houses that included a sauna. It can be an important part of a complete home spa experience. The easiest way to build one is to buy one of the prefabricated units, such as those offered by Finlandia Sauna or Cedarbrook Sauna. These are easily assembled and can sit in the corner of an existing room. They are great to have in your exercise room or as part of a nice luxury bathroom.

If you want one that is more “built in,” you can still gain the benefits of a prefabricated unit by purchasing a pre-cut unit. Both of these options take the guess work out of the equation. The manufacturers recommend the sizes, depending on the number of people you want to accommodate. And the heater, stones, and light are included, too. Assembly is easy.

If you want your sauna to be more customized than the styles the kits will give you, building one from scratch is pretty simple. Just use the right wood, insulate it properly and then buy the heating unit that matches the size of your sauna. A good finish carpenter can do the job.

You usually think of saunas as being a closed box. But I once designed one with a window. The homeowner wanted to be able to look out at his terrific view. We made the window fairly small to control the heat, but positioned it so when he sat in the sauna the window was in the perfect position to capture the full view.

Home saunas are reasonably priced luxuries. Go ahead and pamper yourself.

Concrete “flatwork,” that is, concrete poured in slabs for floors, sidewalks, driveways, and roads, is particularly prone to cracking. It will shrink as it “cures” and crack. And it will continue to swell and shrink when it gets warmer or cooler and be susceptible to developing more cracks.

There are measures you can take to reduce the chances of cracking. Control joints and expansion joints can be placed in the surface. Expansion joints are gaps purposely placed and filled with flexible material. Treated wood strips, cork strips and caulking are commonly used. The flexible material “gives” when the concrete moves and takes up the dimensional change, preventing cracking. Expansion joints are usually only placed in large expanses of concrete.

Control joints are smaller grooves placed in concrete. These are placed minimally at ten foot spaces or less. The idea is to place them to create approximately square panels so the expansion and contraction of each segment is about equal in each direction. So a four foot wide sidewalk might get control joints every four feet. Control joints actually weaken the concrete at that spot with the idea being that when a crack occurs, it will occur within the control joint and not be visible, irregular, and unsightly. Of course, we have all seen plenty of concrete slabs that have cracks running right along side a control joint, completely ignoring the groove they were supposed to follow. So this is no surefire method for avoiding cracks.

There are no good ways to fix concrete cracks. They are usually irregular, jagged lines. Filling them with caulking will keep water from filling the crack and increasing the damage as it freezes and thaws. But the crack will remain visible and even be accentuated by the color of the caulking. You can chop out the cracked portion of the driveway or walk and replace the concrete. The problem with this is the new concrete will always be a different color than the original. So the patch will stand out.

But leave it to the innovators in the world. There may be a cure, at last. Check out this video on Bio-Concrete.

This clever young man has added bacteria and food for the bacteria into concrete. When a crack occurs, the bacteria start growing and build a calcium based filler in the concrete that is strong, keeps the water out, and is much more visible discreet than any other filler you could use. I can’t wait for this to hit the market.

My son, Matt Hirsch, told me about bio-concrete. He also works with bacteria. Only his bacteria are a relatively newly discovered type that can remove nitrates from ponds, lakes, and streams. I believe him when he tells me that microbiology holds many keys to a better world.

I know it sounds like an odd question. We tend to think of using solar design for houses, not clothes. I’ll explain.

If you know it’s a cold day, do you think about what you’re going to wear? Of course you do. You might wear several layers. The layering forms more tiny air spaces around you and increases the insulating effectiveness of your clothing. You might pick out dark colors. Even if you don’t think of this as “passive solar dressing,” it is. dark colors absorb the radiant energy from the sun better than light colors. I’m sure when you’re outside on a cold, but sunny day, you walk on the sunny side of the street to stay warmer than you’d be on the shaded side. Ah! Passive solar principles, again. It’s nothing more than proper insulation and receiving the free energy benefit from the sun.

Insulation is important, so let’s not forget your hat. We always hear that we lose the most heat through our heads. Your house loses the most heat through the roof. Heat moves upward as hot air rises. So wearing a warm hat is like putting good insulation in your attic and roof. It’s the place where the investment produces the most benefit.

We do the same thing in the summer, using passive solar principles to stay cooler. Don’t you choose light colored clothes? Light colors reflect the sun’s radiant energy. You’ll stay cooler. A light colored roof in a hot climate will keep your house cooler, too. Don’t you pick clothing that breathes so you’ll stay “ventilated?” Natural ventilation in your attic will reduce your air conditioning expense. It won’t have to work as hard. With the right ventilation in many climates, air conditioning may not be essential, even on the hottest days. On a hot summer day, you might also wear a hat with a big brim. That’s like having a house with proper overhangs to shade the walls and keep the house cooler. The shading keeps you cooler whether it’s a hat or a roof.

I wrote another blog post last winter about using solar energy to help clear my driveway of snow.  It’s rare to get much snow where we live in North Carolina. But it happens from time to time. Hey, if Mother Nature is giving us free energy, we might as well use it. It’s simply a matter of understanding how to use it.

First, the housing market will slowly recover, but it won’t feel like a recovery. It will be like suffering from a fever of 102 degrees and now it’s only 100 degrees. You feel a little better, but still feel poorly. Unfortunately, there is a lot of housing inventory still out there to be absorbed. That is going to take a while.

The good news in this is that there are great deals to be had. If you can afford to buy, now is the time. This is especially true in the “bubble” areas, like Florida, Nevada, and Arizona. So jump in and get the deal of the century.

My second prediction is that the construction industry will suffer through the entire year, particularly in residential building. Builders will cut their margins and sharpen their pencils to get the few jobs that are out there. So 2010 is your year to build the dream home you’ve always wanted or remodel or re-purpose your existing home to be your perfect house. You’ll get fabulous pricing and the builders will be extremely responsive.

But you need to build in this new year, because my predition number three is that 2011 will show a big rebound. Why? Because there will be a new Congress. And I think it will bring a new attitude. It’s my belief that the voters will dump the current bunch and say, “No” to more taxes and oppressive regulation. I think the President will see the writing on the wall and want to get re-elected, so he’ll go along with them. Lower taxes will be a business stimulus and I think construction will benefit greatly.

But you don’t want to wait until 2011 for two reasons. First, inflation is a certainty. That’s going to hurt construction costs in a big way. Second, there is a massive thinning of the ranks of construction companies right now. Not many will survive. So when things turn around, the supply will be limited and the incentive for low pricing will be gone.

I could be totally wrong on all of this. I’ve been wrong plenty of times in the past. But one thing is for sure. Rigth now is a great time to get good deals on building projects. Everything is on sale. And we all know that sales don’t last forever.

Traditionally, fireplaces were placed in the center of the wall. The furniture was then grouped around it. When television first entered the American home, the screens were small and the television was simply another piece of furniture. Today, television screens are large and arguably the most prominent feature in the room. Usually the television is placed on another wall, so it has enough space. But this means your furniture arrangement must “aim” at both the fireplace and television at the same time. This is pretty hard to do. One poor solution that often is presented is to place the television above the fireplace. This helps with the furniture arrangement, but placing the television at this height only works if you are lying in bed while watching. If you are seated in a sofa or a chair, this is too high and puts an uncomfortable strain on your neck. Are there any other solutions to this dilemma?

One way to get the fireplace and television on the same wall is to not put either one in the exact center of the room and to think of them as a combined element.

In one house I designed recently, we built one wide ”pillar” of stone from floor to ceiling and put the fireplace opening in the right half and the television in a cabinet recessed into the stone on the left half. Then we centered the entire stone element in the room. Neither the television nor the fireplace was exactly centered in the room, but both ended up in good positions for seeing them while seated in the furniture grouping. Your eye reads the combined assembly and sees it as “centered” in the room and on the wall. You could do the very same thing without the stone and instead creating with a projecting drywalled element. Or, the grouping of the fireplace and television could be built into a paneled, cabinet-like assembly that would achieve the same goal.

Thinking of the television and the fireplace opening as being parts of a larger, unitized element will make the arrangement easier to handle and much more successful. You’ll be able to arrange your furniture around this combined architectural element and have perfect viewing positions for both the television and the fireplace.

I know that in our house, with four adult children and their family and friends visiting, we often have a packed house. We wanted a house that was not too big, but would be able to adapt to different needs. We wanted a house that was flexible.

Consider holiday dinners. How will you fit all of those people at one table? Or will some folks have to sit in the kitchen? One way to keep everyone together is to be sure your dining space is expandable in one direction. In our house, we have a dining room that opens to the foyer area. Normally the dining room furniture sits appropriately within the dining room space that is defined by a tray ceiling and to widely spaced columns that denote the end of the dining room and the beginning of the foyer. The opening between the columns is wide enough so that when we extend the table by setting an additional table at the end of the regular dining room table, our temporary banquet table simply stretches into the foyer space. As a result, we can seat twenty people at one sitting.

Other things to consider in making your house flexible are where additional living room type seating might occur, where everyone might sleep, and how multiple people might work in your kitchen at the same time. If you can do these things while maintaining the intimate, comfortable aspect of the house when just you and your fellow full-time residents are there, you’ll have a flexible house that is not overly large.

I have new medium cherry cabinets in a new home that we have just purchased.  I would like them to be much darker.  Is it possible to do this without refinishing the cabinets?  What wood for flooring would you suggest to complement/contrast the darker cherry cabinets?

My answer:

To change the color of cabinets usually means you would need to refinish the cabinets to some degree, depending on their condition. Since yours are new and in good shape, you could clean the surfaces and apply a polyurethane finish with an integral stain over the finish you already have. Minwax Polyshades is one of these products. This would mean that you would not have to strip and sand the existing doors and cabinets. So if that’s what you mean by “refinish,” then the answer is, “No,” you won’t have to refinish new cabinets to change the color. You’ll merely have to add a colored finish on top of the existing finish. Just be sure to follow the directions exactly. Don’t skip any steps. You might try samples of colors on the backs (insides) of the doors before doing any of the fronts. That way you’ll see what you’ll get in an inconspicuous place.

 As far as wood flooring choices go, take a look at the medium to lighter woods, like white oak or even reclaimed heart pine. Don’t go dark with the floor if you are darkening your cabinets. Try for a nice, eye-pleasing contrast between the woods. I’m not sure where you’re located and what is available. But with the smooth cherry cabinets, you could select a flooring that has an “active” and interesting grain pattern, if you like. If oak is too grainy, take a look at rift sawn and quarter sawn oak before rejecting it. Normal, plain-sawn oak can have arch-shaped grain patterns that some folks don’t care for. Rift-sawn and quarter-sawn oak has a beautiful straight grain look and accents of what are called medullary rays, or pith rays. Rift sawn oak is one of my favorites. My mantel and adjoining cabinets in my family room are built of this wood.

 I hope this helps. Good luck with your project.

“Curious what you might recommend for a tall (10 ft) loft bathroom to make the room feel a bit less huge and uncomfortable. Unfortunately, I can’t frame down the ceiling because of a building sprinkler system.  Thanks! Steven”

In the years before air conditioning, especially in warmer climates, rooms often had high ceilings to let the heat rise and make the rooms feel more comfortable in the summer months. These days, high end houses often have high ceilings.

We often deal with the “too high” ceiling in small rooms by simply framing down a lower ceiling just in those spaces. But Steven can’t do that because of the sprinkler. So I suggested that he employ an architectural trick from days gone by.

Here was my suggestion to him. Install a cornice (a piece of crown molding with a solid top, like a plate rail) at the height you would like the ceiling to be. That might be eight foot high if the bathroom is not large. If there is any crown molding where the wall meets the ten foot high ceiling, remove that.

Then paint the wall color only up to the cornice. Paint the cornice the trim color. And paint the wall above the cornice and the ceiling all the ceiling color, presumably ceiling white. You will trick the eye into thinking the room stops at the cornice height because the top part of the wall will blend in with the ceiling. The room will magically feel better proportioned.

Let me know how this turns out.

We are starting to select the different materials around the house.  Your beautiful pictures have been a great inspiration…  I particularly like your wooden floors on pages 114

Page 114 Photo from "Designing Your Perfect House"

and 194. 

Page 194 Photo from "Designing Your Perfect House"

Do you happen to remember/can you recognize the kind of wood they are made of?

Here’s my answer.

The wood floor on page 114 is Santos Mahogany. You can see another view of that flooring on page 150. It looks a bit different from one photo to another depending on the direction of the light. Santos Mahogany is one of the few woods that actually gets lighter when exposed to light. The wood you see in the photos has been in place since 2002. So it has already lightened.

The wood flooring on page 194 can be seen again on page 226. This wood floor is Jatoba. It is also known as Brazilian Cherry. But keep in mind that what is often sold as Brazilian Cherry is actually an assortment of pieces of three different species. Jatoba is one of them and I do not know what the other two species are. But some of the pieces of the other species can tend to look a bit greenish. So if you want the redder color, specify that all of the wood must be Jatoba without any other species included.

I always welcome questions and comments concerning anything related to house design, homebuilding, and remodeling. if they are questions i think other reader might like to hear, I’ll post them in my blog.

 Joyce L. asked:

Thank you for the wonderful site! I am about to “redo” my kitchen. We will be installing light coloured tiles in the kitchen and have new oak floors in the rest of the house. The cabinets are of course the original goldish coloured, raised panel oak cabinets from the 80’s. The problem is that the finish on some of the cabinets almost looks new while other cabinet doors, especially those around the sink and stove area, are in dire need of refinishing. I’m afraid that if I try to refinish some of the cabinets they will not match the existing 30 year old wood/stain of the others. And refinishing all of the cabinets seems like too daunting a task. I’m almost afraid to ask this question but…I have heard that a grain filler can be applied to all the cabinets and then they could be …primed and painted (maybe white, I’m thinking country blue). There seems to be alot of controversy over painting wood, especially oak due to the pores. I would appreciate your advice. 

Joyce – I so glad you like the site. Thank you for the compliment.

I’m not familiar with grain filler, but it sounds like a risky way to go. I would imagine it might be hard to control the outcome and potentially require a lot of sanding. You are correct that painting oak is not necessarily a great thing to do, since the “pores”, or open portions of the grain will show through strongly. But, believe it or not, there are actually new cabinets sold that are exactly that, painted oak. The texture of the oak is prominent and it’s part of the desired “look.” I personally do not like that look. But that is a matter of taste and you might feel differently. That’s why Baskin-Robbins has 31 flavors. We don’t all like the same thing.

A big problem with painting cabinets in a kitchen is that the painted surface will not be as durable as if it were painted in a cabinet shop or factory. The manufacturers of the better cabinets don’t actually use a paint. They use a conversion varnish which cures to a much tougher finish than regular paint. You can wipe it down many, many times with no damage. Regular paint will wear through on your most often used cabinets.

I have two suggestions for you. One is to take the doors and drawer fronts off and take them to a cabinet shop and have them paint them there using conversion varnish. You could then paint the cabinet frames with paint of the same color without removing them from the wall. That’s the part of the cabinet that gets the least wear, so regular paint should work just fine.

The second suggestion would be good if you really would prefer the natural wood look and don’t care to paint over the oak. You can not just refinish the worn doors. They will look too different from the originals since the finish on the originals has probably yellowed over the years. You need to do all of them.

Look at a product called Formby’s Paint & Poly Remover, or similar polyurethane removers. These products will easily strip away the polyurethane finish without too much effort. There is no need to sand through the original finish. This product dissolves it and you simply scrape it off or wipe it off with steel wool. It’s available in an aeresol to help strip the areas with curves, grooves, or tight corners that might be hard to get into with a brush. Next, you clean the surface with a Poly & Paint Remover Wash to remove any residue of finish. Once that is done, you can apply a new polyurethane finish and the cabinets should look like new. If you have any rough spots, you may need to do a bit of light sanding.

If you do the refinishing yourself, take the doors and drawer fronts off. That way you can spread them out in the garage and work more comfortably than if you tried working on them in place. You might even try refinishing the doors and drawer fronts only and see if you really need to do the cabinet frames or not. If you have full-overlay, Euro-style cabinets, not much of it will show when the doors are closed. You may have to do any exposed cabinet sides, though.

I hope this helps. Good luck and let me know how it turns out.

I always look forward to answering questions. Please send them along as a comment here or drop me a note at info@designingyourperfecthouse.com.