Jackie asked: 

“We are reconfiguring our stairs and would like to know what is an adequate space to have from the last step to front door?  It is currently 74 inches – w/ the new configuration it would decrease to 60.  Is that enough room?  Thanks for your time.”

My Answer:

“In average-sized houses, 60 inches should be adequate. If the stairs are offset (off to the side) a bit from the front door, as they commonly are, this is even better. Either way, 60 inches is enough to greet your guests without having to stand on the stairs to do so. If your house is quite large in its other aspects, then this might seem like too small a space relative to everything else. 

You might try mocking this up. Lay a box or something the size of the first step in the position the new steps will occupy. Then try coming in the front door and see how it feels. Also try going to the front door to answer it as someone enters. This will give you a good feel for the appropriateness of the space. If that feels right, then it will work fine.”

Trim is known as “casing” and “crown molding” in the business of construction and architecture. It includes the pieces of wood around windows and doors, baseboards, chair-rails, and crown molding. Modern style houses usually have a minimum of casing or trim. But more traditional style homes might have quite a lot of casing and crown molding. Sooner or later, you will have to select and/or approve these items.

When it comes time to choose the design of the casing, your architect and/or builder may show you a catalog of trim shapes. These are usually a cross section view, or profile, of the piece of wood. And unless you’ve ever installed this material, you probably have never looked at a baseboard or window casing from this viewpoint and the section drawing looks unlike anything you have seen before.

It’s much easier to choose from real physical samples. Your builder may roll his eyes when you ask for samples, but be firm and tell him it’s essential for you. He, or his millwork supplier, can bring samples to the jobsite. They may show you installed samples in his office or in a showroom, but I think it’s better to see mockup samples in your new house. that way you can see the choices in context. Have them nail up a couple of pieces around a door or window opening. Put up a few feet of the crown molding and baseboard.

But don’t stop there. Here’s my “trick” to help you. Don’t leave the wood bare. The grain of the wood can be distracting and keep you from seeing the true shape of the trim profile. Have them paint or stain the trim in a color close to the color you will have in your finished house. This will give you a true look at the trim and you’ll understand what the finished product will look like.

Doing mockups and reviewing several choices may take a little time. But it is worth it. After all, you’ll be living with your choice of trim and casing for many years to come.

Your guests won’t tell you if you have a problem. They’re too polite. Your kids probably have their door open when they are small and don’t have a problem.  Your teenagers probably don’t talk to you much anyway. How can you know if there’s a problem? It’s a good idea to spend a night in each of the other bedrooms in your house, particularly the guest room, if you have one, to see how the temperature goes with the door closed for eight hours. And do this on a cold night and a hot night. You might be surprised at what you find.

Why do these rooms tend to get off temperature? The answer is they are starved for air. A poorly design heating, ventilating, and air conditioning system, know as the HVAC system in the trade, often does not provide a method for the air to return to the heater or air conditioner except through the open door.

Take a look at your bedrooms. There will be a supply air register or two. But, is there a return air grill? The supply air coming to the room must displace the air that is already in the room.  And that air has to go somewhere. When the door is open, the displaced air exits through the door and is sucked up by the return air register in the hallway. Everything is fine with the door open.

But when the door is closed, the air that should be displaced is trapped. When this happens, no new air can get into the room. The “log jam” of air causes a pressure build up at the supply air register and the air in the duct takes the path of least resistance and heads to other parts of the house where there is no resisting air pressure. So the room with the closed door gets no conditioned air and gradually becomes too hot or too cold.

The cure for this problem is to install return air grills in the bedroom. This can be done best by connecting the grill to the return air ductwork so air is taken directly back to the HVAC unit and cooled or heated. If this can not be done due to physical restrictions, a transfer grill can be installed. This can be a simple grill cut in a wall that adjoins the hallway, thus letting the air escape, even when the door is closed. But a direct grill like this will allow sound through, too. It’s better to install a transfer grill in the ceiling and connect it to a piece of flexible ductwork with a bend or two that connects to another grill in the hall. That way the sound can not travel in a straight line and much less sound will be transmitted through the passageway.

Remember, to get the air you want in, you need to let the air you don’t want out. Return air grills or transfer grills are the way to do this. Getting your air conditioning and heating system working optimally is the first major step toward good energy efficiency in a home.

Question – I am thinking about purchasing granite countertops for our kitchen and bathrooms, but I have been reading some horror stories about granite and radon. Now I read your web site, and you say not to be concerned. How can I be sure that the granite I’m chosing doesn’t emit radon? I am honestly very worried after reading about it online, but then you say it’s not true at all.

My Answer – Thanks for the question. The real issue is not whether granite emits radon. It does. Some types emit more than others. The question is whether this is a problem or not. The amount of radon emitted by granite is very small compared to the radon that is emitted by the earth beneath your house. Just look at the size difference. Does the amount of stone in your countertops come close tot eh amount of stone in the ground beneath your house? It’s not even close.

Radon seeps from the ground and it can become a problem when it gets trapped by your house. Your house acts like a hat, preventing the radon from rising up into the atmosphere. If a house has a radon problem, the cure is to ventilate the space beneath the basement slab or the crawlspace with a small fan, thus “untrapping” it. It does not take much air movement to rid the house of radon. When houses have radon problems, it’s because the enclosed crawlspace or basement trap it and don’t let it dissipate. Your kitchen is certainly not an enclosed space. It would be very hard for radon to build up in there to harmful levels. The fact that a kitchen is open to other rooms, doors open and close, exhaust fans run, etc. means that any radon is vented out and never can build up to a level even close to being harmful.

The bottom line is this. For your granite countertops to present a radon health issue, you would need much more granite than a typical kitchen would have, it would have to be a high emitting granite, you would need to keep the kitchen tightly sealed for long periods of time, and you would have to live in there, sleeping on the countertop, for years before this would be a real health issue.

The detractors of granite are the producers of other countertop materials. Every few years they trot out their videos showing the radon meter indicating elevated radon on the surface of the granite. But they unfairly omit the full facts, leaving the viewer with the impression that granite is dangerous. You never see them give radon readings elsewhere in the rooms. They put the meters right on the granite. It makes me wonder how people have lived in stone houses for so many years. No one worries about stone floors or fireplaces. This issue is simply a competitor taking unfair pot shots at a rival based on partial information that plays on people’s fears.

I hope that explains it for you. But if you are stilled worried, there are other countertop materials to choose from. Granite is very nice and, in reality, is no heath problem. But worry is unhealthy. So choose the material that does not worry you.

I have designed many houses that included a sauna. It can be an important part of a complete home spa experience. The easiest way to build one is to buy one of the prefabricated units, such as those offered by Finlandia Sauna or Cedarbrook Sauna. These are easily assembled and can sit in the corner of an existing room. They are great to have in your exercise room or as part of a nice luxury bathroom.

If you want one that is more “built in,” you can still gain the benefits of a prefabricated unit by purchasing a pre-cut unit. Both of these options take the guess work out of the equation. The manufacturers recommend the sizes, depending on the number of people you want to accommodate. And the heater, stones, and light are included, too. Assembly is easy.

If you want your sauna to be more customized than the styles the kits will give you, building one from scratch is pretty simple. Just use the right wood, insulate it properly and then buy the heating unit that matches the size of your sauna. A good finish carpenter can do the job.

You usually think of saunas as being a closed box. But I once designed one with a window. The homeowner wanted to be able to look out at his terrific view. We made the window fairly small to control the heat, but positioned it so when he sat in the sauna the window was in the perfect position to capture the full view.

Home saunas are reasonably priced luxuries. Go ahead and pamper yourself.

Concrete “flatwork,” that is, concrete poured in slabs for floors, sidewalks, driveways, and roads, is particularly prone to cracking. It will shrink as it “cures” and crack. And it will continue to swell and shrink when it gets warmer or cooler and be susceptible to developing more cracks.

There are measures you can take to reduce the chances of cracking. Control joints and expansion joints can be placed in the surface. Expansion joints are gaps purposely placed and filled with flexible material. Treated wood strips, cork strips and caulking are commonly used. The flexible material “gives” when the concrete moves and takes up the dimensional change, preventing cracking. Expansion joints are usually only placed in large expanses of concrete.

Control joints are smaller grooves placed in concrete. These are placed minimally at ten foot spaces or less. The idea is to place them to create approximately square panels so the expansion and contraction of each segment is about equal in each direction. So a four foot wide sidewalk might get control joints every four feet. Control joints actually weaken the concrete at that spot with the idea being that when a crack occurs, it will occur within the control joint and not be visible, irregular, and unsightly. Of course, we have all seen plenty of concrete slabs that have cracks running right along side a control joint, completely ignoring the groove they were supposed to follow. So this is no surefire method for avoiding cracks.

There are no good ways to fix concrete cracks. They are usually irregular, jagged lines. Filling them with caulking will keep water from filling the crack and increasing the damage as it freezes and thaws. But the crack will remain visible and even be accentuated by the color of the caulking. You can chop out the cracked portion of the driveway or walk and replace the concrete. The problem with this is the new concrete will always be a different color than the original. So the patch will stand out.

But leave it to the innovators in the world. There may be a cure, at last. Check out this video on Bio-Concrete.

This clever young man has added bacteria and food for the bacteria into concrete. When a crack occurs, the bacteria start growing and build a calcium based filler in the concrete that is strong, keeps the water out, and is much more visible discreet than any other filler you could use. I can’t wait for this to hit the market.

My son, Matt Hirsch, told me about bio-concrete. He also works with bacteria. Only his bacteria are a relatively newly discovered type that can remove nitrates from ponds, lakes, and streams. I believe him when he tells me that microbiology holds many keys to a better world.

I know it sounds like an odd question. We tend to think of using solar design for houses, not clothes. I’ll explain.

If you know it’s a cold day, do you think about what you’re going to wear? Of course you do. You might wear several layers. The layering forms more tiny air spaces around you and increases the insulating effectiveness of your clothing. You might pick out dark colors. Even if you don’t think of this as “passive solar dressing,” it is. dark colors absorb the radiant energy from the sun better than light colors. I’m sure when you’re outside on a cold, but sunny day, you walk on the sunny side of the street to stay warmer than you’d be on the shaded side. Ah! Passive solar principles, again. It’s nothing more than proper insulation and receiving the free energy benefit from the sun.

Insulation is important, so let’s not forget your hat. We always hear that we lose the most heat through our heads. Your house loses the most heat through the roof. Heat moves upward as hot air rises. So wearing a warm hat is like putting good insulation in your attic and roof. It’s the place where the investment produces the most benefit.

We do the same thing in the summer, using passive solar principles to stay cooler. Don’t you choose light colored clothes? Light colors reflect the sun’s radiant energy. You’ll stay cooler. A light colored roof in a hot climate will keep your house cooler, too. Don’t you pick clothing that breathes so you’ll stay “ventilated?” Natural ventilation in your attic will reduce your air conditioning expense. It won’t have to work as hard. With the right ventilation in many climates, air conditioning may not be essential, even on the hottest days. On a hot summer day, you might also wear a hat with a big brim. That’s like having a house with proper overhangs to shade the walls and keep the house cooler. The shading keeps you cooler whether it’s a hat or a roof.

I wrote another blog post last winter about using solar energy to help clear my driveway of snow.  It’s rare to get much snow where we live in North Carolina. But it happens from time to time. Hey, if Mother Nature is giving us free energy, we might as well use it. It’s simply a matter of understanding how to use it.

First, the housing market will slowly recover, but it won’t feel like a recovery. It will be like suffering from a fever of 102 degrees and now it’s only 100 degrees. You feel a little better, but still feel poorly. Unfortunately, there is a lot of housing inventory still out there to be absorbed. That is going to take a while.

The good news in this is that there are great deals to be had. If you can afford to buy, now is the time. This is especially true in the “bubble” areas, like Florida, Nevada, and Arizona. So jump in and get the deal of the century.

My second prediction is that the construction industry will suffer through the entire year, particularly in residential building. Builders will cut their margins and sharpen their pencils to get the few jobs that are out there. So 2010 is your year to build the dream home you’ve always wanted or remodel or re-purpose your existing home to be your perfect house. You’ll get fabulous pricing and the builders will be extremely responsive.

But you need to build in this new year, because my predition number three is that 2011 will show a big rebound. Why? Because there will be a new Congress. And I think it will bring a new attitude. It’s my belief that the voters will dump the current bunch and say, “No” to more taxes and oppressive regulation. I think the President will see the writing on the wall and want to get re-elected, so he’ll go along with them. Lower taxes will be a business stimulus and I think construction will benefit greatly.

But you don’t want to wait until 2011 for two reasons. First, inflation is a certainty. That’s going to hurt construction costs in a big way. Second, there is a massive thinning of the ranks of construction companies right now. Not many will survive. So when things turn around, the supply will be limited and the incentive for low pricing will be gone.

I could be totally wrong on all of this. I’ve been wrong plenty of times in the past. But one thing is for sure. Rigth now is a great time to get good deals on building projects. Everything is on sale. And we all know that sales don’t last forever.

Traditionally, fireplaces were placed in the center of the wall. The furniture was then grouped around it. When television first entered the American home, the screens were small and the television was simply another piece of furniture. Today, television screens are large and arguably the most prominent feature in the room. Usually the television is placed on another wall, so it has enough space. But this means your furniture arrangement must “aim” at both the fireplace and television at the same time. This is pretty hard to do. One poor solution that often is presented is to place the television above the fireplace. This helps with the furniture arrangement, but placing the television at this height only works if you are lying in bed while watching. If you are seated in a sofa or a chair, this is too high and puts an uncomfortable strain on your neck. Are there any other solutions to this dilemma?

One way to get the fireplace and television on the same wall is to not put either one in the exact center of the room and to think of them as a combined element.

In one house I designed recently, we built one wide ”pillar” of stone from floor to ceiling and put the fireplace opening in the right half and the television in a cabinet recessed into the stone on the left half. Then we centered the entire stone element in the room. Neither the television nor the fireplace was exactly centered in the room, but both ended up in good positions for seeing them while seated in the furniture grouping. Your eye reads the combined assembly and sees it as “centered” in the room and on the wall. You could do the very same thing without the stone and instead creating with a projecting drywalled element. Or, the grouping of the fireplace and television could be built into a paneled, cabinet-like assembly that would achieve the same goal.

Thinking of the television and the fireplace opening as being parts of a larger, unitized element will make the arrangement easier to handle and much more successful. You’ll be able to arrange your furniture around this combined architectural element and have perfect viewing positions for both the television and the fireplace.

I know that in our house, with four adult children and their family and friends visiting, we often have a packed house. We wanted a house that was not too big, but would be able to adapt to different needs. We wanted a house that was flexible.

Consider holiday dinners. How will you fit all of those people at one table? Or will some folks have to sit in the kitchen? One way to keep everyone together is to be sure your dining space is expandable in one direction. In our house, we have a dining room that opens to the foyer area. Normally the dining room furniture sits appropriately within the dining room space that is defined by a tray ceiling and to widely spaced columns that denote the end of the dining room and the beginning of the foyer. The opening between the columns is wide enough so that when we extend the table by setting an additional table at the end of the regular dining room table, our temporary banquet table simply stretches into the foyer space. As a result, we can seat twenty people at one sitting.

Other things to consider in making your house flexible are where additional living room type seating might occur, where everyone might sleep, and how multiple people might work in your kitchen at the same time. If you can do these things while maintaining the intimate, comfortable aspect of the house when just you and your fellow full-time residents are there, you’ll have a flexible house that is not overly large.